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Nestled in the midst of Oregon wine nation, Okta integrates the roots, fruits, leaves and creatures — even the twigs and rocks — of your Pacific Northwest right into a tasting menu with spiritual Proportions. The chef Matthew Lightner (formerly of Castagna in Portland, Ore., and Atera in Big apple) when cooked at Noma, whose impact is apparent

During this tranquil dining room, surrounded by a cheerful staff in all-white uniforms, it might sound as if Yess were being the headquarters for an arcane Southern Californian cult. But no, this isn’t that kind of high-quality-dining restaurant! Junya Yamasaki’s cooking is as exact and managed as his menu is inviting and flexible: Place jointl